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Alaska's Inside Passage

 

Gems of Alaska's Inside Passage
By Julianne Chase Patton

Each picturesque town along Alaska's fabled waterway, the thousand-mile-long Inside Passage, has its own distinct and delightful personality. You'll find Native American totem poles and rustic fishing boats in Ketchikan, past and present-day mining activities in Alaska's bustling capital city of Juneau, the Klondike Gold Rush very much alive and well in Skagway, and Sitka's rich heritage as the former capital of Russian America.
As different as each is from the other, the towns of the Inside Passage share many similarities. The wilderness is steps away from the concrete of the city streets, and the casual outdoor-oriented lifestyle is woven into the fabric of the place. There's a sense of freedom here, reflected in the spirit and independence of the people who call Alaska their home.
No matter how you make landfall -- by cruise ship, ferry, plane or car -- you will not want to miss our list of "must sees" in the jeweled ports of the Inside Passage.
Juneau
The Alaska State Museum, 395 Whittier St., which has an excellent collection featuring Alaskana, Native cultures, Russian history, mining and fishing history, a wildlife display and traveling art exhibits. Open daily 8:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. May-September; $5 per person. Winter 10 a.m.-4 p.m.. Tuesday-Saturday; $3 per person. (907) 465-2901; www.museum.state.ak.us
Alaska's State Capitol, built in 1931 of Alaskan marble, offering free, guided tours in the summer. Look for the marble bear sculpture in the lobby and the Liberty Bell replica out front.
The view of ships, float planes and more in busy Gastineau Channel from the Fourth Street-level terrrace of the State Office Building (open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays).
Juneau's drive-in glacier, Mendenhall, is an awe-inspiring river of ice 3,000 years old, 12 miles long, 1.5 miles wide and a hundred feet deep.
The Mount Roberts Tramway, 490 S. Franklin St., soars 1,800 feet above Juneau, affording panoramic views, alpine walks, Native arts, restaurant and theater. Daily May-September; adults $23.95; children $12.50; under 6 free. Tickets allow unlimited rides for the day and include the Tlingit film "Seeing Daylight." (888) 461-8726; www.goldbelttours.com
Ketchikan
The Totem Heritage Center, 601 Deermount, featuring the nation's largest collection of 19th-century totem poles. $5 per person. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. daily May-September; 1 p.m.-5 p.m. weekdays October-April. (800) 252-5158; www.city.ketchikan.ak.us/departments/museums/totem.html
The Southeast Alaska Discovery Center, 50 Main St., with excellent exhibits on Native American culture, Southeast Alaska's ecosystems and resources and the rainforest. $5 per person. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. daily May-September; 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday October-April. (907) 228-6220; www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass/
A visit to Creek Street, one-time red light district turned trendy with interesting shops and cozy restaurants. Check out Soho Coho, in the historic Star Building, #5 Creek St., for the droll art of Ray Troll and other imaginative artworks.
Take a ride on the Cape Fox Funicular from Creek Street to "upper Ketchikan" for the spectacular view of the town and waterfront from the Cape Fox Hotel. There may be a nominal charge during the summer.
Sitka
The nonprofit Alaska Raptor Center, 1000 Raptor Way, Sitka, AK 99835, where you can make the acquaintance of a bald eagle and other large birds of prey -- and your donation will help make them well. 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday-Friday May-September; adults $12; children 12 and under $6. (800) 643-9425; www.alaskaraptor.org
Sitka National Historical Park - Visitor's Center , 106 Metlakatla St., where you can learn about Sitka's past and see contemporary artworks being created -- all under one roof. Daily 8 a.m.-5 p.m. June-September; 8 a.m.-5 p.m. weekdays October-May. Admin. Fee is $4 per person. (907) 747-6281; www.nps.gov/sitk/
The Russian Bishop's House, on the corner of Lincoln and Monastery streets, is a lovingly restored residence built for a prelate who held sway over an area extending from San Francisco to Japan. Part of the national park, it is open to the public 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily during the summer. Times of free guided tours posted. Winter hours by appointment. (907) 747-6281.
The views from Castle Hill, best spot to take photos of downtown and Sitka Sound.
St. Michael's Russian Orthodox Cathedral, a lovely church with priceless icons and other treasures, rebuilt from the original Russian-era blueprints after a tragic fire. Daily, 7:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. during the summer, unless otherwise posted on the door. Winter hours 1:30-5:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday. $1 donation requested. (907) 747-8120.
Skagway
Klondike Gold Rush Historical Park Visitor Center, Second and Broadway. Get a sense of the rigors of the gold rush from giant photographs and excellent displays. Rangers lead short, free historical tours. No admission charge. Daily 8 a.m.-6 p.m. May-September (907) 983-2921.
The Golden North Hotel, Third and Broadway, dates from the Days of '98 and reputedly has a gold rush ghost in residence.
The Red Onion, Second and Broadway opposite the park visitors center, a one-time brothel and now one of the best spots to hoist a brew with the local crowd and enjoy ragtime piano in a lively, friendly atmosphere.
Ride the vintage parlor cars of the narrow-gauge White Pass & Yukon Route and imagine the struggles of the stampeders as they made their way over White Pass. (800) 343-7373; www.whitepassrailroad.com
This is rainforest country, but don't let a damp day stop you. Plan for the layered look, wear comfortable low-heeled shoes or "Southeast sneakers" (knee-high rubber boots) and most of all get out and about to enjoy the special attractions these friendly towns offer.

Julianne Chase Patton, author of "Inside Passage Walking Tours" (Sasquatch Books, Seattle), grew up in the Great Land, graduated from the University of Alaska-Fairbanks, began her newspaper career in Juneau, and has worked for a major cruise line serving Alaska.

 

 

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